Shane Dorian
Suivant
Award-winning author and The New Yorker staff writer William Finnegan came to surfing early while growing up between Hawaii and Southern California. He helped bring surf writing, as a genre, to the literary fore in 1992 with the publication of his two-part essay "Play ...
Mark Cunningham, aka The Human Fish, is hailed as one of the greatest bodysurfers of all time. He grew up in Hawaii, became a lifeguard in the mid-'70s, and for nearly 30 years guarded primarily at Ehukai Beach Park, with a view straight into Pipeline's barrel. Throu ...